DK1-TKL Review
keyboard by: GDK LAB
Photos taken in House by alex

keyboard by: GDK LAB
Photos taken in House by alex

Some keyboards are built to impress you the second you open the box, while others quietly win you over the longer you use them. The DK1-TKL falls into the first category, but then falling more in love with it is a slow burn. It doesn’t really rely on a flashy design concept or reinventing the wheel here, but instead, it focuses on doing the fundamentals really well, at a good price. All while adding it’s on personality to the board. And that’s exactly what made it stick with me.
I’ve been using the DK1-TKL as my workhorse board for editing sessions, article write ups, and even a few late-night Escape From Tarkov games. After giving it some proper desk time, I think it’s fair to say that this keyboard feels like one of the most solid TKL releases I’ve typed on in a while.
Let’s dive into why that is.
This is not a paid article. These boards were sent to me to look at and they let me keep them after the build stream and no mention of a written review was ever discussed. There are some affiliate links. These links give me kickbacks and allow me to continue making content! All thoughts are my own, transparency matters.

From the moment I unboxed the DK1-TKL, I could tell this wasn’t just another generic TKL trying to check boxes. The team behind it clearly wanted to create something polished and well thought-out, something that earns a proper spot in the custom keyboard world. It’s a gasket-mounted TKL that leans into a timeless yet bold aesthetic, and just enough design flair to keep things interesting. Layout-wise, it sticks to a classic tenkeyless format with an added F13 key, and you get options for both WK and WKL. If you’re new to the hobby, this is the kind of layout I always recommend, it gives you pretty much everything you need without overcomplicating your desk setup.
What really grabbed my attention, though, was the case design. It’s clean, it’s balanced, and it feels like every angle was considered. No over styling the case or awkward branding, just a solid design that lets the materials and finish do the talking. But then you notice the front badges, and yeah, they’re kind of the star of the show here. You get two with the kit, which is awesome on its own, but the finishes they offer are even better. The standard PVD looks good sure, but the stone-washed options? They’re on a different level. Seeing them in person actually made me pause for a second (you should check the live stream VOD). They add texture and depth in a way that I didn’t expect. If you’re picking one of these boards up, do yourself a favor and grab one of the stone-washed badges. They elevate the whole look of this board.
The board I got came in their “Dark Gold” finish, though to be honest, it leans way more toward a gunmetal gray in person. It still matched the photos just fine, but the name felt a bit off. I also opted for the brass weight, and while it looked clean, it blended into the brass bottom case a little too much for my liking. If you want a bit more contrast in the overall look, I’d recommend going with the anodized weight instead. It breaks things up visually and gives the board a bit more definition. Totally a personal choice, but worth mentioning.
The price on this board honestly made me look twice. It feels like Qwertykeys-level pricing and quality, just from a different team. If that comparison makes sense, you know exactly what I mean. You’re getting nine anodized color options, seven coated finishes, a brass bottom case, and two front accent pieces all for $191 USD. That’s seriously impressive, especially considering how clean the design is and how well everything is executed. If you want the wireless version, it’s just fifteen dollars more, which is a great option to have.
A big part of the fun here is just picking out your parts. The configuration process feels personal, and you can tell care went into giving people choices that actually matter. If you fully kit it out with all the premium add-ons, you’re looking at around $260 USD. But to be honest, unless you really need those extra PCB features like wireless support, I don’t think most people need to go that far. The base kit already gives you a complete, well-designed board that holds its own against anything else in this price range.
Oh and it comes with a metal keycap, fun!


Cut down video from my Twitch stream
Building the DK1-TKL was straightforward and stress-free… sort of. The board uses a ball catch system to open, and while it isn’t difficult like the Zoom TKL I built recently, I still have mixed feelings about it. To be fair, the implementation here is done well. Everything fits together nicely, and there was no obvious misalignment or rattling. That said, I’ve had issues with catch-ball systems in the past, like subtle pinging or cases not closing properly. I’m not saying the design is bad, but I do think there are some trade-offs to be aware of.
There was one specific issue I ran into. If you try to open the board with keycaps already installed, it gets tricky. Most people would naturally open a board with the ball catch system from the top side first, then the bottom. But since this board has a slim profile and low front height, the front frame can catch on the keycaps and actually pull them off. It’s not the end of the world, but it takes away from the experience and introduces a real chance of damaging caps or switches. Just be cautious when opening the case after your build is fully assembled.
Aside from that, the rest of the build experience was smooth. If you go for the hotswap version, it gets even easier. I used the included case foam and had no problems with assembly. There are no internal cables to mess with either, since the board uses a well-placed POGO pin setup for the daughterboard. Always a win in my book.
For mounting, you can choose between silicone dumbbells or a more standard gasket sock. I tested both and they each sounded and felt good. However I do think the there are clear limits to how soft this board can be without it bottoming out. Which, even like I said in the video, you kind of feel forced to use the harder gaskets. You can also build the board plateless if you want, but keep in mind that you’ll be limited to using just the gasket socks in that case.
One final note on the internals, the case has cavities on the inside of the bottom shell. If you’ve followed my recent preferences, you’ll know I love when designers include these. They help reduce material without compromising structure, and more importantly, they improve how sound travels inside the board. Instead of bouncing off a flat surface, the sound gets scattered and spread more naturally. It gives the board a fuller tone, even without foam, and that’s something I really appreciate.




I tested this board with Blue Cheese V2 switches, which I hand-lubed before pairing them with an aluminum plate and most of the foams. Honestly, I loved the result. It wasn’t too foamy and still let all the fun sounds through while having a nice balance of firmness and dampening. My build used the 1.2mm flex-cut PCB, which is why I chose to keep the foam in, but I also went through a bunch of sound tests from other content creators. A lot of them ran the 1.6mm PCB with no foam at all, and I have to say, those sounded just as nice in their own way, more raw and open, but still super clean.
Even with the foam, the sound profile held up really well. It leaned thocky but had this refined, almost rounded tone to it. It’s the kind of sound that feels satisfying but never gets fatiguing, even after hours of typing. You get richness without the harshness, which is something I always look for in a daily board.
In terms of feel, this is where the mounting really comes through. The gaskets give the board a soft, cushiony press that makes longer sessions feel more comfortable. If you go with the dumbbell-style gaskets, you do have to be careful with how soft you go. I ended up preferring the sock setup, and I absolutely loved how the build turned out overall.
After spending some real time with it, the DK1-TKL has quietly become one of my favourite daily drivers. It has a timeless aesthetic, a well-executed internal mounting system, and a solid sound profile. What really sets it apart, though, is the value it brings through its pricing and the unique front badge system. It feels like a board that was designed with both enthusiasts and newcomers in mind.
It also happens to look great on a desk. With plenty of color options available, it pairs well with a wide range of keycap sets. Whether you prefer a clean monochrome setup or something a little more expressive, it fits right in.
If there’s one downside, it’s that you’re limited to a brass or copper bottom case. That naturally pushes the sound profile deeper, so if you’re someone who prefers brighter, snappier clacks, this might not be your ideal match. At the same time, that deeper tone is part of the board’s character. The added weight and resonance from the brass bottom help deliver a premium feel at a very reasonable price. The DK1-TKL feels like it was made for people who want a heavy, high-quality board with a soft gasket typing experience, all wrapped up in a modern and thoughtful design.
And of course, my other thought is lack of native VIA support. The need to keep a JSON file handy to customize your keyboard is annoying. I really wish QMK and keyboard designers could figure out a better way to work together. The hang-up seems to be wireless issues when using VIA. Listen, at the end of the day I know it’s not a huge deal, but to me it puts a barrier to customize, your customizable keyboard.
The DK1-TKL didn’t try to reinvent the wheel, and honestly, that’s part of what makes it so good. It focuses on the things that matter: clean design, solid acoustics, and a build experience that doesn’t get in your way (for the most part).
For the price, what you’re getting here is kind of wild. The fact that it starts at under $200 and includes features like a brass bottom, multiple finish options, and a complete accessory kit puts it in a very competitive place. Whether you’re looking for your first custom board or just want a solid TKL to round out your collection, it checks a lot of boxes.
Is it perfect? Not exactly. The ball catch system has its quirks, and the brass or copper bottom does lean the sound profile toward something deeper and heavier. If you’re chasing that bright, snappy clack, this may not be the board for you. But if you want something that sounds full, feels soft, and looks like it belongs on any desk setup, the DK1-TKL delivers. The crazy part is it really doesn’t even have a lot of competition right now in this price bracket, maybe the Neo80, but I feel like this is the better buy.
At the end of the day, this board left a pretty darn good impression on me.
Until next time. 👋



